What are the most popular forms of extensions?

*Temporary Hair Extensions come in the form of ponytails, falls, or wefts of hair, that can be clipped, taped, or glued to the head.

*Hair Weaves Weft hair is hair that is sewn to a thin piece of material in strips, similar to a grass skirt. The "wefts" of hair are attached to a cornrow made on the scalp by means of gluing, bonding, taping, or sewing. They can be bulky, sometimes itchy at the scalp, and generally last several weeks, then they are tightened or removed.

* Fusion extensions , or Strand by Strand is a natural looking and long lasting method. Incorrectly called bonding, although the hair is bonded - technically bonding refers to another method of application. A small bond of Keratin is pre-attached to the ends of roughly 80 hairs per 'strand'. The extension strands are then attached to small sections of your hair near the scalp by heating the Keratin and forming a small bond to your hair. The site of attachment is small so that the extensions can move seamlessly with your own hair. These extensions last 3 - 4 months, and should be removed or redone at that time. They can last 5-6 months with impeccable maintenence, however removal may become time consuming, and it is not always feasible - with any method or "system" of Fusion extensions.

* Cold Fusion. Similar to the Strand by Strand method, only the keratin bond is not heated, but rather ultrasonic waves liquify the Keratin to form the bond. Cold Fusion can also refer to bonding with a glue that is not heated.

* A variation of the weaving technique are the Braided hair extensions present in cornrows, twists, and locks. In these styles the braids are meant to be visible and extensions are simply worked into the braids themselves.

* Links, Microlinks, Beads, Tubes, Rings, or Locs is similar to the Strand, or Fusion method, only the extension hair is put through a small tube which is then squeezed shut in order to attach the hair to yours.

* Shrinks are similar to microlinks, the 'links' however are a type of adhesive that is heated to form a bond. Popular w/sythetic hair and dreads, though not exclusively.

* Taped
Hair on a weft is taped to your hair. Quick installation, hair can be re-used, lasts a few weeks.

*Bonding
Hair on a weft is glued to sections of your hair. Installation is quicker than fusion, hair can be re-used, lasts a few weeks.

*Off Track Bonding
Hair on a weft is glued to your hair and the weft is cut off. Doesn't last as long as regular Bonding, however is much more undetectable, hair cannot be re-used.

*Weft attachment using Microlinks
Hand Tied or Machine weft is attached using Microlinks. Lays much flatter without the bulk of cornrows. Needs to be tightened periodically, hair can be re-used, installs more hair with fewer attachment sites.

*Skin Weft

Hair sewn to a thin polyurethane strip is attached with tape or glue. Lays very flat. Hair can sometimes be re-used, needs to be re-done every 6-8 weeks.

*Pinch BraidsIntertwist
Bulk Hair is attached to your hair by means of braiding.

*Intertwist

Extension hair is braided into cornrows at the scalp, then secured with thread.

What are the benefits of extensions?

Aside from making hair longer, fuller or both, a bad haircut can be remedied instantly. Middle stages of growing out can be avoided. If you're always trying to get more fullness, washing every day to get volume - you can put an end to this and not have continual styling stress on the hair. Some believe extensions are high maintenence, but in reality they can actually save a lot of people time otherwise spent styling.

We see a lot of people who are "growing layers out" and don't want the top layers cut. But this is always the driest part of the hair.

*One of the great things about extensions is - the top layers of your hair that you're currently using for length can be cut to be used as volume on top and face framing, and the extensions will add the length and more fullness.

*If you're getting married or have a special event there are exciting options available to make a more dramatic effect.

*Many clients say their hair looks and feels better after extensions. Most extension clients actually give their hair a break by not having to style and process it as much.

Can extensions damage my hair?

Just like too much flat-ironing, chemical processing, or sun exposure - it's like anything else. If installed or cared for improperly, or cheaper products are used...well, you know the rest...

*If extensions are put in too tightly or incorrectly, it could cause damage.

*Cornrows, used in weaving, could break the hair.
*If they aren't cared for, or are left in too long extensions could cause damage. (Extensions need to be brushed at the scalp and not allowed to get tangled with your hair).
*Not all Fusion glues are created equal, some require Acetone (nail polish remover), to be removed - not ours, we remove them with oil.

*Not all Fusion Tools are the same. They should have a temperature gauge and be of high quality.
*Be careful buying your own hair, cheaper hair can tangle with itself and your hair.

What about companies that have their own extension systems?

There are companies promoting their own "system". They teach stylists their method and are the sole provider of all promotional materials, products, and hair to salons - all claiming that theirs is the best and that other methods will damage the hair. Some claim, among other things, no glue no damage. Quality glue, in and of itself does not damage the hair. Others claim they "modulate polymers" to bond the hair. They may call it whatever they choose, they are melting an adhesive to form a bond. Some require alcohol or acetone to remove the extensions. Some boast about flat bonds. Flat is good, but flatter also means wider, which makes it bulky in a different way, which could defeat the purpose.

Their products might be perfectly adequate, however we have seen them make sugar coated, not completely true claims - and they all claim to have the best hair.

Remember...

*The person applying the extensions plays a huge role in the quality of them!

*Cutting extensions is difficult - and is a huge part of the process. Notice how the hair is curled under on many websites, hiding the actual cut. Who styles their hair like this anyway?

*Even when choosing one of the major extension brands it is still possible to have inferior work done as far as the application and the cutting of them.

When searching for a reputable extensionist we recommend finding some one with whom you feel comfortable, who will answer your questions and not just coat things with fluff.

What system does Philip James Salon use? What is the best hair on the market?

We don't use any company's system. We do what we feel is best. We started doing fusion extensions in 1987 - before most of these companies existed. We are not confined to any one hair product supplier. Nor are we helping to pay for their advertising and promotional materials, or using their photos as examples of our work. We have literally searched the globe to find what we feel is the best hair, bonders, irons, links, and all other related products on the market, and will readily stand our extensions up against any other system. This allows us to offer many more options and not be stuck to one particular system.

*Our hair is 100% Remi and is silky soft and tangle free, in 11 textures.

*Our Keratin is 100% Natural Keratin, costing 5x that of keratin sticks and similar products. It contains oil, allowing it to soften a bit and move with your hair.

*We remove our Fusion extensions using nothing but oil.

*Some cheaper keratin glues dry very hard and require the use of Acetone (nail polish remover) or alcohol to be taken out. These products ARE NOT 100% Natural Keratin but rather keratin based, and also contain plastic.

*Our Fusion iron temperature is much less than half that of a curling or flat iron, with temperature gauges we continually monitor.

I've worn Taped, Bonded, Off Track Bonding, Fusion, and Hand Tied weft using Microlinks. My hair is color treated, average, not thick, blonde and fine, and I shampoo every few days. I have felt slight discomfort sleeping the first night with a couple of these methods but was quite comfortable with all the above mentioned and had no hair loss, nor did they damage or burn my hair. And believe me, I certainly don't want to damage my hair either!! I guess personally I feel if I can wear them, a lot of other people could too - hey, I'm a guy!

*There are many options out there. You don't have to get a full head. A great way to try extensions is for added fullness, or just to add some texture or fringe.

We've been in business since 1990 and our goal is to help people with their hair, not to damage it. If we feel something is not feasible we wil not perform the service, and any reputable salon will conduct their business in the same manner.

Different extensions will appeal to different people, it boils down to personal preference. You might try them once and have some fun with them. Many clients find they like them and want to continue wearing them.

What is the best hair on the market?

There is no "best hair on the market". There's high quality hair, and there is hair of varying lesser qualities. EVERYONE, in case you havn't noticed, claims to have the best hair - not possible.

How much do Extensions cost?

*These prices do not necessarily reflect what we charge, but rather to give a general idea of what you might pay from the cheapest to the most expensive.

The longer the extension hair-the higher the cost can be. If your hair is very thick, more hair may be needed. The amount of time to attach the extensions could also be greater. Synthetic or less expensive hair can sometimes reduce cost.

Temporary or clip in extensions range from $60 to over $500. These extensions can be put on yourself.
Hair weaves start at roughly $300. Fusion extensions, including shrinks and links methods, usually start at around $375 (not for a full head). Some salons charge $1500-$4000 for a full head of Fusion extensions.

Do Hair Extensions in Chicago cost more than elsewhere?

Prices for hair extensions in Chicago is competetive compared to the rest of the country.

Will glue hurt my hair?

Quality glue will not. It's made for hair, it's been in constant development for years. Fusion extensions were developed in 1987.

Does the heat from Fusion irons damage the hair?

The heat used applying extensions does not cause damage if proper tools and high quality keratin are used. Our Fusion iron temperature is much less than half  that of a curling or flat iron, placed on a very small area of your hair, one time. So if you've flat ironed your hair once, you've already caused much more damage to the hair than melted Keratin could.

I'm getting married, can I use extensions to give me more hair?

Clip-ins are a great way to achieve a more dramatic look. Some clients also go for a more permanent method to last awhile before and after the wedding, or to avoid having to grow their hair out for a wedding hairstyle. There are a lot of options.

How are hair extension bonds hidden?

In Fusion, microlink, skin weft, microlink sew-ins, and various other forms of extensions - hair on top of the head and along the hairline is left out. So your own hair covers the bonds on top. Your own hair along the hairline covers the bonds on the sides in front so the hair can be pulled back.

Can you color clip-in extensions?

Yes we can.

Concerning Locks/Links/Tubes/Cylinders etc..I've read, "No heat no glue therefore no damage"?

This is simply untrue. They've essentially created a problem that doesn't necessarily exist, and made people worry about it. If anyone is worried about heat causing damage to hair - you better throw away all curling irons, flat irons, blow dryers, and hot rollers immediately. Remember, some of these articles are merely trying to sell one system over another.

In our personal opinion Microlink bonds aren't quite as smooth as Fusion, but that's a matter of preference. As with ANY kind of extension, your hair can get tangled around the bonded area if not brushed routinely.

Can I wear Fusion or Links for 6 months?

As far as Fusion or Microlink/ring extensions lasting 6 months, it is possible, and we have had clients who have kept them in that long. Many sytems out there say "the extensions will last 6 months". If put in properly, and the bond is holding, extensions will easily stay in the hair for 6 months - that's not really the point. Maintaining them properly for this long is not always possible. It's not reasonable to make a blanket statement like this. Any Fusion/Link/Lock/Tube system on the market, that is left in for 6 months, will usually take longer to remove, and is not feasible for everyone.

Can anyone get extensions?

Hair extensions are feasible for most, but depending on what type, not everyone. A consultation should be required before getting extensions.

Can I still tease my hair on top with extensions?

You can still tease your hair with extensions in.

My hair is extremely thin on top, will extensions help fill it in?

They may not or may not. If extensions are placed on the top of the head the attachment might be visible. A consultation would be required to answer that question.

Will anyone know I’m wearing them?

No one will know. Extensions are designed to be undetectable.

Can my own hair still be colored?
Yes. If your own hair is colored you may continue to get touch-ups.

Are there other ways to make my hair more full?

The right haircut and color can give the hair more volume than you might think. Also, if you color your own hair it's very difficult to not recolor hair you've already colored. This sucks moisture out of the hair leaving it split, dry, and lifeless - especially once it gets to be several inches long.

My hair is relaxed, can I still get touch-ups?

Yes. You may still get touch-ups in areas where the extensions are not placed.

I have had hair extensions before, using sew in and cornrows and I could not tolerate it after 3 days and took them out. Due to the tightness of the cornrows, the weight of the hair and my scalp gets very scaly and itchy with cornrows. Is there another option?
This unfortunately is one of the problems with a cornrow sew-in. A sew-in on a microlink base is a great alternative. No cornrows are used. So there is no bump from the cornrow - lays much flatter. Also, a hand-tied weft can be used, which eliminates the piece of material at the top of the weft - allowing an even flatter, less bulky, and more seamless installation. Imagine no cornrows and no material in the weft! This method however leaves some of your hair out, on top and in-between each weft. So if you don't want any of your own hair left out this might not be a good alternative. If you want to eliminate the chances of breakage from cornrows this might be what you're looking for.

What is a weft?

Hair is sewn to a small strip of material - it looks like a grass skirt except with hair. The weft is then attached to your hair. A Hand Tied weft is much less bulky and very light weight compared to a regular weft.

What is the bonding agent?

Various compounds are used to bond the hair. Hair weaves use a liquid type bond. Fusion extensions should use a Keratin bond. There are also latex bonders.

What is Keratin?

Keratin is a fibrous structural protien. It is the main constituent in structures that grow from the skin, ie. hair and nails.

What is the removal process?

A solution is applied to remove Bonding. Most brands of Fusion extensions use Acetone (nail polish remover) or alcohol to remove the hair. We remove our Keratin Fusion extensions with oil. Microlinks are opened and the hair is removed.

Is there any maintenance?

Hair can be treated like your own with a few considerations. Shampooing everyday can shorten the life of some extensions. Saunas and hot tubs can melt the bonds in some cases. Products with oil can weaken the bonds. Microlinks need to be tightened. Your stylist can go over any other specifics on what kind of care is needed for your particular extensions.

Where does the hair come from?
Human hair extensions come mainly from Europe, India, and Asia.
There are many varieties of human hair. Some hair is chemically processed to achieve the various colors and textures. Because it has been chemically treated it is less expensive. More expensive hair goes through a different kind of process to achieve various colors, and the texture is natural. This process of osmosis can take a few weeks to achieve different colors. The best hair also has the cuticle layers facing one direction to prevent tangling. Less expensive hair comes from several donors, is chemically processed, and the cuticle layers will all not be aligned. This hair is soft and silky to start with but becomes dry quickly.

What is virgin hair?

Virgin hair is hair that has not been chemically altered, ie. colored, relaxed, permed.

What is Indian hair?

Indian hair is hair that is from India. It is usually virgin hair, although it is not suitable for all hair types. It is a strong, yet thin strand. Virgin Indian hair is usually from one donor, and has shorter hairs mixed through it-due to the hairs’ natural growth. This is known as single drawn hair.

What is double drawn hair?

Hair that is double drawn contains hairs that are all the same length. This makes for thicker hair with more body.

What is Euorpean hair?

European hair is collected from different areas in Europe. This virgin hair is also of very high quality and is used to match the texture of certain hair types.

What is Remy (Remi) hair?

Remi hair is virgin hair with all cuticle layers facing in the same direction. It is the highest quality hair available.

What is cutcle hair?

The hair has an outside layer similar to scales on a fish called the cuticle When the cuticles are not facing the same direction the hair can become matted and tangle. Cuticle hair is a term for hair w/cuticle facing the same direction.

What is Italian Hair?

Italian hair is a term used for a cheaper, yet decent quality human hair.

What is synthetic hair made of?

Synthetic hair is generally made from a plastic fiber. It is used a great deal in dreadlock or braided extensions, though not exclusively.

Hair Extension Chicago Question and Answer

Please e-mail your questions to info@philipjamessalon.com.